I’m on a solo bike trip that would be the most common response to the Family Feud question “what kind of bike trip would a white middle aged Canadian geeky academic go on?” I’m riding from Amiens to Bruges, through memorials and battlefield sites from the first world war. I booked this trip last winter before I embarked on months of moving across country and a million other things and just generally letting my fitness routine slide to the bottom of the priority list.
On Monday, I wrote on my personal blog about my trepidation before I started riding, and then about the wind sucking the life out of me on my first day of riding. My second day of riding was longer and more complicated, but I wasn’t as shattered at the end — it was a little less windy, the hills weren’t as steep, and my asthma inhaler worked a little better. I had a lovely conversation with a woman from last night’s hotel, and she was super encouraging and drew me a little itinerary that fit what I wanted better than the tour company’s plan for the day.
It’s still not easy, though, and I’ve been pondering what part of it continues to draw me, makes me feel like I haven’t had a summer if I haven’t done a slightly too hard solo bike trip. It’s not exactly “fun” — the terrain isn’t straightforward, the wind is always tearing at me the wrong way, and it’s very hilly. I took a detour today off the planned route to see a little Canadian military cemetery near Courcelette, and I asked google maps how to get to the town where I would rejoin the planned route. I ended up on 3.5 km of road that started like the image on the left, become the middle one and ended like the one on the right.




It’s a good thing the bike my tour company gave me is a solid hybrid. And at the end of that track, I saw my first actual fieldpoppies. The ground is so parched and most crops have been harvested, so despite the poppies on all of the memorial signs, I have hardly seen any real ones.
The ride was a series of little challenges like that — the tea room at the Thiepval memorial was closed, but there was a vending machine and a bathroom. The nice man at the Newfoundland memorial wanted me to park my bike across the street and take off my helmet for decorum and I just couldn’t bear it, so I just gave a nod to the NFLDers and kept going. There was a road closure that meant I had to plot an alternative that — I hoped — wouldn’t be another rutted track or a main road filled with fast trucks. It wasn’t, but it added 10 km or so. When I finally got to my hotel, the desk guy eyed me skeptically, checked me in laconically and didn’t make any kind of effort to help me carry the heavy bag that had been delivered while I was riding, even as he told me my room was up steep stairs. So I dragged it, bike shoes and all, self-reliant once more. And of course, when I arrived in Arras after 65 tough kilometres with low blood sugar and a need to eat, I ran into the eternal french problem of restaurants firmly closing between 230 and 7.
And yet, it’s fun. It’s nice when people say things like “I could never do that” — because I don’t think I can either, really, but I’m just bloody determined. Dealing with the curveballs makes me feel competent. I’m glad it’s not 35C and that my body is mostly holding up. It feels appropriate that this quasi-pilgrimage to those horrific battlefields isn’t on an air conditioned bus, but is measured out in one pedal stroke at a time. I like this time-out-of-time feeling where — despite September looming at me — I can hold real life at bay for a few more days. I like discovering towns I would never ever go to if I weren’t on a bike, towns that aren’t fancy or magnetic, but just where people live. I ended up finding food in a place called Emilie and the Cool Kids that sells juice and hot dogs, but they were out of hot dogs. I asked for a quinoa salad and they were out of quinoa, but somehow, I ended up with the exact thing that I most want at the end of a long bike day — a salad made out of spinach, goat cheese and pasta with sundried tomatoes. I like being put into the place of noticing and enjoying the small things — I savoured the heck out of that salad and whatever the juice was that came with it.
I am having a lot of thoughts about memory, and who gets to tell stories, and why there are weddings at a tea shop at a huge war memorial, and what it means to us to honour rows of stones marking unknown soldiers when we, as humans, never grow out of the kind of bullying and territorial behaviour that leads to war. It feels unnerving to be touring the historical places that are part of solidifying Canada as a country at the same moment when our sovereignty is genuinely threatened more seriously than in nearly a century. And somehow, riding my bike through these sites reminds me that humans are resilient, and that we get through it. So I keep pedalling. Noticing the ripe apples and the unexpected goat cheese and the gift of a woman named Isabelle who was invested in my joy.
Fieldpoppy is Cate Creede-Desmarais, who has another four days of riding.
































